Frequently Asked Questions:

Q. All of these grills that you recommend are so hot that I’m afraid they’ll incinerate my food. Why do you recommend grills that are so hot?

A. Simple: so many grillers complain that they can’t get the results they seek. The simple reason is that they are using under-powered grills. With a low-powered grill, the tendency is to set the grill on “High” and leave it there throughout the grilling process. This can ruin food, producing dried-out shoe leather instead of a tender, juicy steak.

With more BTU’s per square inch, you have the power to sear a steak properly to seal in the juices and produce a steak that you can be proud of. Further, for meats that need to be more well-done, such as pork or chicken, use the the grill on “High” to sear first, for about 2 minutes on each side, then turn down the grill to “Low” and cook slowly until you reach the desired doneness. It works every time.

That’s what those funny knobs do on the grill, guys: they regulate the heat produced by the grill. With an underpowered grill, they really do very little; give them some power to handle, and they can make you look like a genius.

Q. Why do you rate such pricey grills? I want something a little less expensive.

A. I rate grills on this site for all price ranges so that folks from any walk of life can enjoy a decent grill. The fact is that there are many great grills for under $1,000, under $750, even under $500 that would even make Emeril Lagasse proud!

I look at it this way: you took the time to come here and research grills, which tells me that you are planning to spend your hard-earned money -- and you want to make the most of it. You don’t want a grill that isn’t going to last, isn’t going to do what you want, and cook nothing but shoe leather. You’re treating it more like an investment, why shouldn’t I?

Q. Why don’t you like any Weber grills on this site? I love my Weber!

A. Well, Weber makes some fine grills; it’s not a matter of not liking them. I have ranked them against their competition, and reported the results here. Some Weber models fare better than others. It’s kind of like the old Ford Model T: everybody knew of the Model T, so it became the standard to compare against. No one knew about other cars like the Overland, the Volvo, etc., until tastes had become more refined. Today, I would shudder if someone said that the Ford Taurus was the best car on the road -- and I drive a Taurus!

The same holds true of Weber, in a way: they mass-produce a good, stable product. They aren’t a Mercedes-Benz; they’re a Ford, and Fords can be good...

Q. How do you determine the ratings for each grill?

A. Sheer magic. No, seriously, folks, I do actually have a system, and it works like this: in each feature category, I give a rating. For instance, take Burner Type: a cast stainless steel or cast brass burner will earn 5 points; a thick tubular stainless will earn 4 points, where a standard-thickness tubular stainless steel burner will earn 3 points; cast iron will earn 2 points, and anything else will earn 1 point. I do the same thing for cooking grids, rotisserie data, radiant systems, grease management, warranties, etc. I total up the points for each category for each grill, factor in the BTU/square inch ratio and “intangibles” (cost of conversion kits, spare parts, proprietary parts and such), and determine the best buy. The higher the score, the better the purchase. It’s as simple as that.

Q. What is a “proprietary” part?

A. OK, I brought it up, so I’ll explain: a proprietary part is a replacement part that you can only purchase from the manufacturer, instead of a replacement part manufacturer. For instance, certain grills sold in mass retailers are specially made so that they have non-standard sized gas hoses and fittings, making you go directly to the manufacturer for a replacement. Often, they either don’t make the replacement part -- or worse yet -- they discontinued the part just after discontinuing the grill entirely, which forces you to buy a whole new grill to solve your problem. So much for convenience!

Q. What is burn-through?

A. Burn-through is what happens when those little holes on your burner grow and encompass the other little holes on either side. When you shut off the grill, you generally hear a ‘pop.’ What is happening here is that the flame actually produces a vacuum inside the burner which sucks the gas out. When you turn off the gas and extinguish the flame, that vacuum actually reverses inside the burner. This reverse vacuum actually can suck in burned and partially burned particles surrounding the burner. On later uses, these particles do a couple of things: 1) they burn inside the burner; 2) they create disturbances in the gas flow, creating hot spots inside the burner. The resulting hot spots literally burn through the burner!

Some burner materials, like cast stainless steel or cast brass, will not burn through or rust. Cast iron will not burn through, either, but it will rust -- and severely. Tubular stainless steel won’t rust anywhere near as quickly as cast iron, but it WILL rust and it WILL burn through. Stamped sheet metal isn’t even worth considering.

Q. Why are you so enthralled with rotisseries? I’ve never done anything with a rotisserie in my life.

A. Well, what are you waiting for? Rotisseries are the best way to cook larger cuts of meat like pork roast, leg of lamb or turkey (with apologies to deep-fried turkey fans). You can even place several cornish hens on one spit. The flavor is unlike anything you have ever had before: slow-roasted, crispy outside - tender & juicy inside - the kind of food that melts in your mouth with an absolutely incredible flavor! Grease and fat drip away from the meat, leaving the meat and its juices for your enjoyment (this is why it’s important to have a back burner -- to prevent flare-ups). It’s also one of the easiest ways to cook for a group: just load the meat on the spit, fire up the grill, start the rotisserie and your timer, then go relax with your guests. There is no easier way to grill.